PRACTICAL HOW TO VIDEOS
Watch Aussie TVs “The Home Team” install screens on a side fence
Watch a stop motion of a Wooloomai Installation in a common paling fence application.
See the Garden Gurus review OUTDECO Gardenscreen
give your backyard a makeover,
with ready-to-install screen panels!
Whether it’s a decadent screen wall feature, a side wall for your patio or deck area, a grand entrance, a fence feature to fill the hole where the hedge died, or where the neighbors built that 2-storey extension, Garden Screen™ project panels open up a multitude of DIY projects to you.
PAINTABLE TO A RAINBOW OF OPTIONS FOR YOUR BACKYARD
Outdeco screens are versatile to any color palette you want. Being a timber-based product, they can be painted with a multitude of outdoor finishes. We recommend most water-based products designed for timber, like for example Glidden Weathershield, or for a rich stained timber look, like a IPE Deck Stain.
PAINTING NOT REQUIRED!
It may be assumed, by discussion of painting options that the material needs paint or sealing to protect it in outdoor conditions. This unique Australian material does not require painting to protect the material integrity from run-off precipitation (rain) when installed on a sound vertical structure. We offer a 10 year warranty on material degradation (rot, bloat, de-lamination).
NATURAL RUSTIC LOOK
However the natural tannin (pigments) in the surface will fade during UV exposure. For some users this is a desired ‘rustic’ finish, in the same way many contemporary architects deliberately allow hardwood timber features to naturally grey or ‘silver’. If you are using the screens in conjunction with hardwoods you can let it all weather and tone in and age gracefully!
STAINS & NATURAL LOOK
A note about stains. You can use any product you like, even clear products, but the pigments in a stain color like IPE will help to enrich the natural color, but also help to block UV further. A product like this will hold the rich timber-fiber texture for longer reducing maintenance. Maintenance for this look maybe similar to a decking hardwood timber, however it is more dimensionally stable than virgin hardwood, and doesn’t have splitting grain etc, so can actually outlast timbers.
MACHINE-FINISHED SURFACE READY-TO-PAINT
For the ease and safety of either raw exposure or DIY coating, the board surface is machine-finished giving you the best physical surface preparation for bonding water-based paints and stains.
The screens can be painted by any means, with brush, roller or spray-gun.
A spray-gun maybe the most efficient application. Spray should be directed at 45 degree angles in alternating directions to cover edges, and spray lighter coats from many directions, to minimize build-up in one area.
You can also use a paint roller to effectively coat especially if you’re using one side as the predominant visual face. Use a short-medium nap roller and make sure the roller is not too wet when applying. Several light coats maybe better than one heavy coat to minimize drips on the cut-outs. Cleanup excess drips on edges after each coat.
You can also apply with a brush, however you should apply with a drop sheet underneath, and be diligent to cleanup excess drips on cut-out details as you go.
FASTEN AT 12″ INTERVALS AROUND THE BORDER OF EACH PANEL
Use timber screws, nails or (in the case where you fasten to a metal frame like RHS) pop-rivets. For reference, each panel ways 9-11lbs.
Large brads or small nails in a nail gun can be carefully fired with a rubber stop, to leave inconspicuous pin hole fastenings (head just on or below surface). Alternatively small nails can be used with a careful hammer. Pre-drill a slightly undersized hole first to neat locate your nail and prevent blistering or blowing the surface. Use galvanized nails.
Timber screws are the most mechanically sound fastening, and can be simple and neat. Pre-drill slightly oversized holes through the panel, so you can neatly position the screws in center of border, and so the screw does not force and blister the surface. When driving with an electric driver, drive the last part of the screw home gently, so the head pulls up tight to the surface, but doesn’t pull into the panel. You can use countersunk (like a decking screw) or a screw with a flat back of the head (like a button-head) used for fixing sheet metal or other materials. Use galvanized, stainless steel, or other outdoor grade.
You can also use a construction adhesive, however in many applications it may require reinforcement of a physical fastening. Ensure raw material is exposed for bond and is clean and clear of dust, paint oil or water. Use a large bead (or double bead) to ensure maximum interfacing area, and mechanically fix or clamp whilst bonding.
For more specific scenarios, like fastening into an existing brick-wall, your local hardware store stocks a broad range of specific fixings for your job.
A WORLD OF OPPORTUNITIES
The frame or structure can be as simple or as sophisticated as you and your project requires. It can be as simple as fastening it to an existing structure, into a wall (anchoring into a wall requires consideration of the structure, brick, timber), or create a secondary light frame onto the structure (light treated pine batten or rectangular frame that fits to an existing wall or fence, or creating an independent structure out of timber or steel. In many instances it can be fixed into a purpose specific framework for a balustrade, pergola, gate panel, garage door, bench seat – you name it!
SEE FASTENINGS – for details on how to fasten your panels. For more specific scenarios, like fixing into an existing brick wall, your local hardware retailer stocks a broad range of specific fastenings for your job.
FASTEN TO AN EXISTING BRICK WALL
Always be aware of what structural significance the wall has when considering fastening to it. Is it a shared easement, or owned by your neighbor, is it in good health? What is it supporting? or what is supporting it? In most cases fastening small anchor fastenings to a brick wall will have minimal impact on the wall itself but the structural nature, health of structure and easement or ownership of wall (on a boundary) may need consideration.
Fastenings into the wall substrate require individual consideration of your scenario, and your local hardware store stocks a range of options. Each panel is 9-11lbs. An expanding mechanical fastening like a dynabolt is a great option.
TIMBER BATTENS, STAND-OFFS
Most fastenings for brick wall will require pre-marking, pre-drilling and fastening and can be difficult to get pinpoint accuracy, when drilling to into a hard masonry material. For this reason (especially if you are installing multiple panels, it can be advisable to install timber battens (along the 48″ or 70″ edges) into the brick wall, and fasten your panels to the battens. This will minimize the amount of fastenings going into the wall, the final visual fastenings into your panels are fastened timber-to-timber which is easy to place accurately or adjust if slightly wrong. The battens will also offset the panels off the wall giving you a floating shadow effect. This effect can also be created by using stand-off blocks or posts (used in applications like glass-paneling), but this will require more accuracy, effort and budget.
EXISTING STUD-WALL, FENCE, SHED
If fastening against an existing skeletal structural, consider how flat and ‘true’ (square, level, sturdy and able to take extra loading) the structure is. You be able to use the batten approach as above being sure to fasten into the studs or (structural members).
TREATED PINE FRAME
To get the sturdiest and most versatile solution, and finer visual result, building an independent frame maybe best. Create a ‘raft’ of vertical and horizontal members, with the external dimensions matching the panel edges, and the internal members following along the center-line of the panel joins, so you have area to fasten the edge of each panel. If you make this up as an independent frame, you can do it on a flat surface, and lay the panels over to check dimensions and ‘square-ness’ as you go. We suggest allowing a small expansion gap between each panel joint, so be sure to allow for this when planning out your cutting. This method allows you to focus on getting the panels, the frame and all your joints matching perfectly before you erect it and have gravity ‘fight you’. Once together get a helper and lift the frame into place, and get the entire piece level. This option allows you to nudge things around if it’s slightly off level, or you want to raise it higher or completely move it at a later date.
RHS FRAME, GATE FRAME, DOORS, BESPOKE FRAMES
You can use the same principles, but build the frame out of RHS (Rectangular hollow steel). This may give you a lighter, sturdier or more long-lasting frame. This option might also be employed if you or a specialist fabricator wants to fit them to a bespoke or off-the-shelf gate, garage door or other moving structure.
FREE-STANDING SCREEN WALL-FEATURE
A free-standing feature will need a frame similar to above, but you may choose to either use posts minimum 4″x4″ posts as part of the frame, or create the frame, and set posts separately, and erect the frame onto the posts afterward. Post height, weight and footing requirements vary from project to project, so should be considered on an individual basis. Always be aware of any underground services and features before digging.
Apart from the fact this size format is much sturdier and dimensionally stable than large panels under stress and constant atmospheric change, its just handy.
Pick one up and throw it under your arm, load them into your trolley, then into the car, then install it without a team of burly tradesmen! Each panel weighs approximately 10-11lbs (dependent on design).
48″X24″ PROJECT PANEL,
70″x48″ LARGE PANEL
The modular nature of the panels mean you can create an installation of any size, orientating and repeating the pattern as desired. Stacking them vertically you can create standard heights 24″ (for a retainer cladding, planter-box, bench seat or storage box), 48″ yard fence or balustrade height, 70″ standard fence height, 48″ (low ceiling height in a patio or pergola, or a reasonable fence extension) and 70″ or 72″, a high ceiling or wall height for a shed or adjoining wall or building.
CUT WITH CIRCULAR SAW, JIGSAW OR OTHER COMMON WOODWORK TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES
The project panels can be cut and machined in other ways using standard woodworking techniques and tools. The board is denser and harder than MDF and finer than chipboard, but will cut similarly. To cut a straight edge with a circular saw or jigsaw, mark and clamp a piece of straight timber along the line (allowing for inset distance of the blade to the guard plate) then push the saw along the timber edge using it as a fence. Consider where the line cuts through the pattern and where this cut is on your overall structure. If a structural member is behind the cut line, you can fasten the varying open elements that have been cut back to the structure to maintain its strength, and if necessary you could finish this edge with a capping piece of decking timber or similar.
10 YEAR EXTERIOR MATERIAL WARRANTY & Minimum Application Guidelines
•10 YEAR WARRANTY against material rot, bloat or de-lamination under
normal outdoor ‘run-off’ conditions. Screens mounted in vertical plain, not submerged/ constant contact with water, soil or chemicals. Installations are the responsibility of the installer. Directions herein must be followed.
• Hardwood Exterior-board product, performs similarly to timber decking timber. It is resistant to normal run-off weathering, but not suitable for applications where submerged or <4″ to ground or constant water
• Natural Tannin may release and go rusty or grey over time(similar to IPE) if left unsealed. Like natural timber products the panels may vary in color and texture.
• Painting is not required, however for alternative colors and finishes, use outdoor paint or deck sealer products, and follow instructions or consult landscaping professional.
• Suggested minimum fastening 12″ centers apart along border.
• Alternatively use a suitable construction adhesive for invisible fixing, or use a combination of the screw and adhesive eg. decking screw in each corner and adhesive around border.
• For best results measure, draw-up, pre-drill position and clamp before/during fixing. Use small spacers (tiler’s spacer or other) to create a consistent joint with expansion joint, to allow for natural movement of timber materials.
• 1-3/4″ nominal border to accommodate typical fixing and conceal 4″ post or support.
• This is versatile product and can be cut down and fabricated as per timber, however this is not a freestanding structural product.
• Installations are the responsibility of the installer. Material Warranty valid within USA and Canada.
The benefits to the consumer given by this warranty are in addition to and not in conflict with all other rights and remedies of the consumer under a law in relation to the goods or services to which the warranty relates.